Monday, February 15, 2010

Fixing a weak catchlight in Lightroom

Hi folks,
With all the plugin related stuff going on recently, there's been little time for a video. So here's a short one to help with catchlights.



Make sure you click through to see it at a larger size.

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Thursday, May 21, 2009

Creating an IR Camera Profile

irprof.jpg


Hi Folks,
I did a version of this video a while ago, but never published it properly. After going through a series of Screen Capture applications, I'm now mixing Screenflow with Stomp to give you these, hopefully, improved videos with zooming and panning.

This video covers the creation of a camera profile for my Infrared Camera, a converted Canon 400D. The conversion was done by Advanced Camera Services in the UK (they also do it for Europe), but Life Pixel do it in the US.

Now, I'm still getting used to Screenflow, and I will improve the audio further (it's still better than a lot of videos I see online), so bear with me. The intro was done with the 5D Mark II, so try not to laugh too hard.

Addendum: I said color calibration when I meant white balance as I hovered over the WB slider in the DNG profile editor. Also you can get the Matt Dawson script I mentioned from his site, The Photo Geek.

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Wednesday, April 08, 2009

Masking

The concept of masking is pretty simple to follow. A read world example should suffice. When we paint our wall, we put tape on our light fittings, door and window frames, to prevent paint getting on them. The standard tape used is called masking tape. In Lightroom we use masks in a few places, for example with sharpening in the Detail Panel of Develop. This gives us a general edge mask on the picture, allowing sharpening to alter only the edges we select using a slider. It is quite usable for a global tool (i.e. working on the whole image). We also have masks when we use the Adjustment Brush, and in a way the Graduated filter is a graduated mask. Fill Light and Recovery use masks, but the user can't access them directly.

I'm really here to talk about masking in relation to the Adjustment Brush. I'll talk about current masking in Lightroom and make a brief mention of methods that can be used in Photoshop that are not available in Lightroom. To what end? Well feature request actually!

When you start painting with the Brush in Develop, you can see the effects of the slider settings immediately. Conceptually you are painting a mask that is revealing the brush settings. In Photoshop terms, it's rather like having 2 layers, the original image layer and a new layer with the brush settings applied to the whole image (either as a copied layer, or an adjustment layer). Essentially the new layer has a black layer mask to hide it all (concealing the adjustment) and when you paint, it's like using a white brush to reveal the new settings.

In Lightroom you can view this mask temporarily by hovering over the pin. If you are comfortable with the settings you are applying, or if you are going to alter them once the mask is painted, you can turn the mask view on by pressing the 'O' key (that's O for Overlay to help remember it. You're overlaying the mask view on the image). You can also cycle through mask colours by pressing Shift O. The default ruby colour takes a cue from Quick Mask in Photoshop.


mask.jpg


When you brush in Lightroom, you can alter the brush size (the square brackets [ & ] will change the size) and the feathering (Shift [ & ] to change). Feather controls the softness of the brush. You can also choose flow, which controls the opacity of the mask. There is also a tickbox called Auto Mask. With this one, Lightroom becomes more edge aware, searching for differences in contrast and colour, and only masks areas similar to the start point. When it works, it's a Godsend, but often it can be hit and miss. It's also very processor intensive.

Essentially when you mask, you have to paint it on. Auto Mask can help with edges, but you still must manually create the mask based on your own visual clues.

In Photoshop there are many ways to mask, by hand also being one of them! You can also use the image itself to create a mask. Without turning this into a Photoshop tutorial (there are already enough out there), you can view the channels panel and choose whichever channel has the most edge contrast to start creating the mask you want. Using Calculations, Refine Edges, Dodging and Burning, you can create a mask the caters to your need exactly, or close enough that a small amount of hand painting will suffice. The Pen tool can be used to make a Path, which can then be made into a selection, and from there a layer mask created.

Lightroom doesn't offer anything like that kind of control. It needs to store the mask in the catalog, and in XMP, so it can't afford to have a B&W image channel stored there. It would make the catalog unwieldy, especially for large catalogs with loads of masks.

I would like to see Lightroom have more advanced masking tools. Perhaps one option would be the ability to create a mask in Photoshop and have Lightroom be able to access it and convert it to a form storable in XMP. How would this access occur? Well I envision that you could click to create a new pin, then right click on that pin. One of the options would be 'Load Mask'. You'd need to have created a mask in Photoshop and saved it as compatible file (e.g. a flattened grayscale image, or whatever the requirement may be). Lightroom would then load the mask into the pin and save it as part of the file in the standard mask format.

Now you may say, "if you've created the mask in Photoshop, why not just use a PSD, or TIFF?". Well, it's because I'm all about the Raw. I want the mask associated with the Original Raw file. That way any Virtual Copy or Snapshot will contain the mask (now inside Lightroom, and not dependent on the location of an external file), and any further alterations I make to the file will be still a metadata edit.

I certainly wouldn't expect this kind of request to be fulfilled in the next version, but it's a seed planted. And by writing it down I might actually get it out of my head for now and get back to real work! Almost a thousand words that should really be on a magazine article!

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Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Matt's Monday Presets on Tueday

Matt Kloskowski has posted more presets this week, rather cool (or warm) sunset presets, albeit a day late.
I know, the presets usually come on Monday but I wanted to change it up this week. Actually, yesterday just got away from me. Anyway, this week I’ve got some presets for you that are specifically geared for sunsets with lots of sky. As I was looking through my photos I realized there were basically two types of sunsets - cool or warm. The cooler ones typically had lots of blues and some reds in them. The warmer ones had more of a yellowish color to them. So I made a few tweaks in White Balance as well as HSL and saved them a while back. Now whenever I have a sunset photo I usually give these a try first and I get great results most of the time. If anything, it’s a great starting point and you can always go tweak the Temperature and Tint settings under White Balance for more or less of the effect. Have at ‘em!

I've used similar presets for ages, but it's great the way he has them done as 2 levels of cool or warm.
Here's an image from yesterday that I've applied the Cool II to. (Good timing Matt!)

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Saturday, November 24, 2007

Muted colours and other trendy looks.

For those abounding on Flickr and other similar sites, here's a few looks that are currently popular and easy to create with Lightroom:
Let's start with our base photo:



To get a muted look, start by adding Vibrance and removing Saturation. As Vibrance only saturates colours that are not already saturated (it also protects skin tones from becoming too saturated), we can effectively remove saturation in a controlled way by applying Vibrance and removing Saturation. I use +50 Vibrance and -50 Saturation as a starting point. Change it to taste from there.



Next up we'll add some creative Vignette. Now Vignetting with Lightroom is generally only a corrective tool, but with uncropped images, it works fine for creative control. Here I've applied -100 Vignette and moved the midpoint to taste (11 in this case).



Because I've done such an extreme vignette, the skin has darkened too much. I want to retain the effect of the Vignette, so I use the Lights and Highlights in the Tone curve to taste for the image. Here I've used +28 Highlights and +49 Lights.



The image is finished for my taste, but if you like you could add a Cross Processed finish. This is done quickly and easily using the Split Tone Pane. The fastest way to use this is to by holding down the Option key (Alt on PC) and moving the Shadow and Highlight Hue Sliders to select the shadow and highlight tone colours. This set the Saturation level to 100 when you move the Shadow/Highlight Hue sliders, allowing a quick preview of the effect. With Cross Processing, the Shadows tend to be in the Blue-Green range, while the Highlights tend to be in the Yellow-Orange range. Once you've selected the colours, increase the Saturation sliders to taste. I find that lower values work better than higher values. For this deliberately green/yellow look, I've used Highlight Hue 65, Saturation 37, Shadow Hue 153, Saturation 30. You can also use the Balance slider to favour Shadows or Highlights.

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Sunday, February 25, 2007

Lightroom and Nikon Modes

There's an article on Nikon Mode Presets over at Nikonians.

In it Rick from Colorado states:
"Try these camera calibration settings in Lightroom. They're not an exact match for Mode III, but they'll get you in the ballpark.
Red Hue: -25
Red Saturation: +35

Green Hue: 0
Green Satuation: +10

Blue Hue: +10
Blue Saturation: -25

Depending on which contrast setting you prefer in Capture or in-camera, you may need to adjust some of the other parameters as well. A "normal contrast" setting in NX is similar to a "strong" contrast curve and a contrast setting of around 30-35 in Lightroom. These settings work fine in ACR as well.

In practice, I have presets in Lightroom and ACR called Mode III Color, Mode II Color and Mode III Default. The first and second simply change the values on the camera calibration tab, with the Mode III one using the values I just mentioned, and the Mode II reflecting zeroed settings. Those enable me to quickly change between two different color palettes. The Mode III Default setting incorporates color mode, tone curve and contrast values and gives me the equivalent of Mode III and a normal contrast curve. It replicates a combination I use frequently with Capture.

Rick, Nikonian in Colorado"

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Monday, January 29, 2007

Develop Presets

The keeper of the flame since I kicked off a Develop Presets Sharing post many moons ago, has been Richard Earney of Method Photo. He's recently updated the Lightroom Presets page to reflect the new V1.0 preset changes. Added to the light are a few new ones by Martin Evening.
http://www.method-photo.co.uk/lightroom/

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